
Textile Vägen
Entrepreneur and textile designer Margit Thorén graduated from Sofi Almquist’s coeducational school in 1931 and then continued her studies at the Bartlett School of Architecture in London, where she majored in interior design.
During a period when it was difficult to find work, Margit Thorén expanded her knowledge through courses in weaving, materials science and textile design at Brunsson’s Weaving School, as well as studying typing and bookkeeping. She customized her own education, and her determination laid the foundation for a successful career in the textile industry.
Svenskt Tenn’s textile department, 1952.
In 1934, the 20-year-old Thorén was hired by Estrid Ericson at Svenskt Tenn. It all began with her working for a few days at the “Table lay thyself!” exhibition and after her impressive efforts, she received an offer in the spring to head up the textile department, which was to be inaugurated on the upper floor of the store.
When Thorén began there were only about twenty rolls of fabric in the basement, but the department quickly developed into one of the most important sections of Svenskt Tenn’s range. Much of the success was due to the cooperation with Josef Frank, whose printed patterns became the mainstay of the business.
Margit Thorén“It is of tremendous value, not the least for interior designers, that textiles are not short-lived, born from fashion fads and disappearing with them.”
Margit Thorén designed Schackrutan in the 1940s.
At Svenskt Tenn, Thorén was colleagues with Edna Martin who, in 1943, suggested they both become partners in the company Edna Martin Textil, which she was planning to start. Thorén accepted the offer, and through her network of architects, interior designers and skilled weavers around Sweden, they combined artistic vision with a high level of craftsmanship.
After Edna Martin became a designer at Svensk Hemslöjd in 1945, Thorén took over the company alone and renamed it EMTE Textil after her own initials. Under her leadership, EMTE Textil produced upholstery fabrics, curtains and printed fabrics for public environments such as hospitals, schools, hotels and banks.
Some of Thorén’s most well-known works from the 1940s are those she created for Svenskt Tenn and Estrid Ericson. The Gripsholmsruta fabric, the Schackruta rug, and the Vägen furniture fabric, remain to this day, timeless classics in Svenskt Tenn’s range.
The Vägen furniture fabric by Margit Thorén.
The Gripsholmsruta fabric by Margit Thorén.
Margit Thorén’s vision and creativity lived on through EMTE Textil, which was taken over by Barbro Thessing in the 1980s. She further developed both the weaving studio and the production. Since 2005, Vandra Rugs has been managing this heritage, taking it forward into a new era.
The double-weave rugs are woven by hand.