The reflective restaurateur

Petter Nilsson, one of Sweden’s most creative and reflective restaurateurs, has a long and fascinating career behind him. At the age of 15, he entered the restaurant world by chance—something that would later prove to be a classic ‘sliding doors’ moment. Today, nearly 40 years later, he runs Café Svenskt Tenn—a place where sustainability, quality, and culture come together in a unique and creative way. Here, he shares the story of his journey, the inspiration, and the vision behind the place.

Serendipity led the way

Petter grew up in Ängelholm in Sweden, where, at the age of 15, he took his first steps into the restaurant world by enrolling in a restaurant school in Helsingborg.

– At first, it was probably quite a random choice. I was a bit tired of sitting at a school desk, but perhaps also of my hometown. Ängelholm didn’t have a restaurant school; the nearest was in Helsingborg, and there were also a few more alternative record shops that drew me in…

But quite quickly, Petter realised that cooking wasn’t just a job—it was an art form. Inspired by Danish and Swedish culinary pioneers such as Erwin Lauterbach at Saison in Copenhagen and Thomas Drejing’s Petri Pumpa in Lund, Petter’s early ideas about sustainability, respect for ingredients, and a vegetable-driven kitchen began to form. These ideas would shape his entire career.

– I was fascinated by the craft and saw an opportunity to express myself creatively through food and the overall experience around a meal. Erwin Lauterbach's kitchen already had a vegetarian menu at that time, always with respect for nutrients, using only seasonal ingredients, much organic produce, great expertise, challenging norms—altogether, a very formative experience.

When I then heard about Petri Pumpa in Lund, my attention shifted there. It was a restaurant born out of Saison, but even more refined, more ‘Cut to the bone’—a way of thinking and approaching the kitchen that I still hold dear, though in a more developed form.

A cultural contribution rather than entrepreneurship

Petter travelled to France, where he became a central figure in the gastronomic scene. He ran restaurants like La Gazzetta in Paris and Les Trois Salons in Uzès—both known for their innovative dishes and sustainable philosophy.

– I brought inspiration from home, and with my experiences in France, the ideas grew and matured in my own little bubble, he explains.

A visit from a French-Italian journalist at Les Trois Salons proved particularly crucial, giving Petter’s cooking international recognition. But for Petter, the ambition has never been to compete, but rather to invite guests to come and experience his world.

– It’s about creating a sense of bien-être, of well-being, where everything is in balance—from the food to the environment to the service. Through subtle gestures and thoughtful care, we offer guests an experience of creativity and attention. I see it more as a cultural contribution than as entrepreneurship.

In the midst of the pandemic in 2020, Petter opened Restaurant Petri on Kommendörsgatan in Stockholm, named in part as a homage to Thomas Drejing’s restaurant Petri Pumpa. Running a restaurant in the past few years, marked by both the pandemic and geopolitical tensions, has led him to reassess what is truly important, both personally and professionally.

– It has taught me to think in new ways and to value life differently. Among other things, it has made me view cooking more as a responsibility towards both guests and the world.

Café Svenskt Tenn

With his deep passion for cooking and sustainability, along with his remarkable ability to create complete experiences, Petter Nilsson continues to shape the restaurant world. Since 2022, he has been running Café Svenskt Tenn not just as a place to eat and drink, but as an expression of a more sustainable and thoughtful approach to food and culture.

– Many of the values I seek in my kitchen are present at Svenskt Tenn: a sense of quality, timelessness, and responsibility towards nature. I want the café, just like the store, to be an oasis in the city—a welcoming place that exudes quality. Where everything is a little more subtle and better than one might expect. Where the natural gesture in the craftsmanship and in the combinations feels obvious yet surprising.